Abetaruvar
Bungalow is owned by Chief John Peter Arnamhabat. He's about
80 years old with many historical tales about the Big Nambas,
missionaries, World War Two and independence.
In the cool, humid interior forests there are three
major natsaros
with lines of hundreds of stones commemorating grade-taking
ceremonies in the past and other important relicts of the
Big Nambas culture. One carved stone was removed in the
first half of the 20th century and now resides in a museum
in France.
Near Tenmaru,
the Apiyalo cave has some interesting artwork: hand stencils
and engravings from many years ago.
Don't
expect to see too much kastom
in Tenmaru today. The church has effectively stamped out
pig killing, kava,
native dress, kastom dancing and tam-tams in much of northwest
Malekula. These once fierce and hostile people have been
subdued and much of the kastom knowledge will die out with
the older generation. On the other hand, they have a miraculous
story about the coming of the church.
There
were plans, in 2005, to build a tourist bungalow at Benanalvet village
just north of Tenmaru. This village is Presbyterian and
more liberal.
Costs
and Booking
Accommodation at Tenmaru costs 1500 Vatu per person, per
night. Meals are 300 Vatu each. Some of the tour prices
are 1000 Vatu to the cave, 2000 Vatu to the natsaros above
Tenmaru and 500 Vatu to the grave of the missionary Norman
Wiles. All expenses are to be paid in Vatu cash. Exchange
Rates.
Accommodation
and Food
John Peter's bungalow is built of local materials and has
four single rooms. Bring your own mosquito net. The main
door is lockable (bring your own small padlock). Hurricane
lamps are used for lighting.
Food
at Abetaruvar is simple aelan
kaekae or rice dishes. The village water supply is sourced
from a clean stream in the hills and is OK to drink. Bring
your own tea or coffee.
Bathing is in the
river near the bungalow. Bring your own bath towel, soap
and toilet paper. The
toilet is a simple dry-pit squat design.
Services,
Suggestions and Transport
Tenmaru has no telephone, no medical clinic and no real
stores.
Ask the drivers in Lakatoro to find a truck for north Malekula and Tenmaru.
If you're
coming from Wiawi, it's a relatively straight-forward three
and a half hour walk to Tenmaru. There's a spring at Vakas village,
near the road, where you can get clean drinking water.
First surveyed: December 2004 by Stephen.
Last updated: May 2009 by Stephen.
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