Walking Vanuatu on Ambrym

Ambrym's ash plain, volcanos and mountains offer some of the best trekking and hiking in Vanuatu. The Lonely Planet guide book says trekking across the ash plain is one of the best walking adventures in the South Pacific. Ambrym is the second most popular island for volcano tourists (Tanna is first). Some visitors travel on specialised volcano tours (larger groups), a growing number are travelling inpendently.

Trekking the ash plain and volcanos
The interior of Ambrym is an enormous volcanic ash plain with two active post-caldera cones. There are three or four access points to the ash plain and volcanos (refer to the map on our Ambrym page). Most tourists walk from the west or the north. At Meltungon and Lalinda trucks can drive about halfway to the ash plain along dry riverbeds. We haven't heard of many tourists trekking the Endu track but it's surely possible and the people of Endu are interested in tourism development. We haven't walked all of the routes below so please contact us if you can update this information.

Note that access from north Ambrym is closed from the 1st of September to the 31st of December, every year. It is said the yams will go dry if someone visits the volcano during this period. Volcano access from west and east Ambrym is always open.

If you have time and are prepared for camping it is highly recommended to take two days and walk across the ash plain from north to west Ambrym or vice versa. Note there are no camping facilities on the ash plain and no water sources. You'll need a tent, sleeping bag, a warm top, a rain jacket and drinking water (3 or 4 litres should be enough). This is real backpacking, not merely travelling with a backpack. If north Ambrym is closed then you can loop around between Meltungon and Lalinda or even Endu.

It's possible to do a return day walk to the volcanos from Meltungon but it's a very long day (10 to 14 hours) and you will have to leave very early in the morning (at 3 to 4 am). Day walks are shortest from Ranvetlam.

Volcano walking fees listed below are much the same from all access points. For example, a guided return day walk would cost 4000 Vatu or an overnight trek is 7000 Vatu without any porters. At Meltungon and Lalinda, a truck transfer halfway to the ash plain costs about 1500 Vatu, one way (3000 Vatu from Baiap). Exchange Rates.

Hiking the mountains of Ambrym
Ambryms forest-covered mountains are enjoyable day hikes. The most accessible peaks are Mount Tovuo in the north and Tower Peak (Wusantepan Leplep) in the south.

Mount Tovuo (1141m) is easy bushwalking through hill gardens and then cloud forest with orchids and unusual birds. On a clear day, there are great views across Ambrym and to neighbouring islands from the mountain top. A guide from Fanrereo village costs 1000 Vatu. Solomon Douglas Bungalows at Ranon can book a guide.

Tower Peak (999m) is accessible from Lalinda. We haven't climbed it yet and don't know what the forest is like. Expect excellent views on a clear day. A guide costs about 1000 Vatu.

Walking to get around Ambrym
Walking is an effective way to travel on west Ambrym with easy walking along truck roads as far east as Lalinda. Note the Lonely Planet guidebook consistently underestimates the distances. Our estimated distances and times are presented below.

Walking across to southeast Ambrym is sometimes done by more adventurous tourists. Lalinda to Maranata is easy, you follow the truck road to near halfway and then follow the beach. Maranata has no village, only a Seventh Day Adventist school. They have a spare house where you can sleep overnight for about 500 Vatu including meals. The school principal can arrange a guide. Sunday (the SDA Sabbath is on Saturday) is the best day to find a guide. It's a good idea to overnight at Maranata and allow plenty of time for the final walk to southeast Ambrym. It does not look far away on the map but the walking is slow.

It used to be a simple beach walk from Maranata to southeast Ambrym but coastal erosion has produced difficult obstacles just around the point from Maranata. This walk is hazardous at high tide with a heavy backpack. It is said one can pass around the bad sections at low tide. The safest route from Maranata to southeast Ambrym follows the old truck road, passing through the bush around the rough sections of coastline and then coming out onto the beach around halfway to the first village. It's longer but you needn't worry about tides.

An interesting alternative walking route across to southeast Ambrym passes from Lalinda to Endu via the ash plain. Villagers from Endu regularly pass this way. You can hire a guide for 2000 Vatu. It looks like a very long day walk.

Last updated: July 2005 by Stephen.