Ambae,
the original Bali Hai
Ambae
inspired James Michener's mysterious island of Bali Hai
in his book Tales of the South Pacific.
The island
is a large active shield volcano, rising to 1496m above
sea level. It's Vanuatu's second highest island with crater
lakes on the summit and cloud forests on the upper slopes. East Ambae is wet and the west is a rain-shadow area.
Ambae's
west and northeast are densely populated. Elsewhere there
are few villages. The centre for PENAMA province is at Saratamata
in the northeast. Ambae is famous for its aelan
taro and melo-melo kava.
Ambae
is an excellent place for hiking and walking, good for bird watching
and there are secluded beaches in the south.
Not
many tourists visit Ambae even though it's close to Santo
with frequent and inexpensive transport links.
Bungalows
We feature the following places to stay:
Duviara Guesthouse, Duviara Conservation Area, Ambanga 
Lolowai Transit House, Lolowai 
Rose and Jeffry's Paradise Garden House, Ambore 
Toa Palms Bungalows, Ndui Ndui 
In the
more densely populated areas on Ambae there are local standard guesthouses, often owned by the church or
community. These are not promoted to tourists and we haven't
visited them all. Ask around and you shall find somewhere to stay.
U.S. Peace Corps volunteers used to camp at Devil's Rock. It's a nice, quiet
place with sand beaches, coral reefs and sea turtles. There
were plans to build bungalow accommodation here. Contact us if you can provide an update.
Air
Transport
Ambae has three airstrips. Fares are summarised below (May 2006). Tourists holding
an international Air Vanuatu ticket are entitled to a 20%
discount on internal fares. Exchange
Rates. Ambae has lots of flights,
so check the latest Air
Vanuatu domestic schedule carefully.
| Airport |
Return Santo fare (Vatu) |
Return Port Vila fare (Vatu) |
Landings per week |
| Walaha |
10933 |
29833 |
Many |
| Longana |
14218 |
30913 |
Many |
| Redcliff |
12193 |
No flight |
1 |
Sea
Transport
There
are one or two ships per week between Luganville and Ambae.
A one way fare is about 2000 Vatu to west Ambae
or 2500 Vatu to the north of the island. Exchange
Rates. The crossing takes three to four hours but more
than half a day can be spent servicing the villages around
the island. Note these are cargo boats with poor facilities for passengers.
One exception is the L/C Sarafenua which has a lounge with plastic chairs (and
no clear spaces to lay down and have a sleep!).
The
Simonsen Wharf in Luganville (past the big wharf, on the road towards
the airport) is a good place in to find ships for Ambae. It's
also a good idea asking someone from Ambae in Luganville.
Ships also pass by Ambae on their return from Port
Vila to Santo and stop at most places on the northeast
and west of the island. Good places to find ships are Ndui Ndui in the west and
Lolopuepue and Lolowai in the north.
In 2009 the L/C Brisk was servicing Lolowai and she has a reliable schedule.
Road
Transport
Ambae has extensive road networks in the west and northeast
but the rugged coastline prevents a complete round-island
road. Some truck fares are listed below. Exchange Rates
| Truck journey |
Charter fare (Vatu) |
Shared
(Vatu)
|
| Walaha - Ndui Ndui |
2000 |
200 |
| Ndui Ndui - Devil's Rock |
3000 |
|
| Lolopuepue - Lolowai |
3000 |
300 |
| Longana - Ambanga |
4000 |
|
Last
updated: June 2009 by Stephen.
|