Santo is a big island with roads only in the east and along the south. Elsewhere, people are used to walking.

There are many tracks to explore, more than we could detail on this website, but few travellers know much about them. We have recently been to Kerepua and can detail the southwest part of Santo only.

The south and Pic Santo
Only a few tourists go to Pic Santo. It's a long walk to the summit, about three days, but the trail is not steep. Most bird watchers are satisfied by walking up to 1200 m or so and then coming down.

The starting point is Ipayato, a Francophone village on south Santo. There are no tourist facilities here, you just turn up and ask to speak to the chief. He will arrange guides, porters and, if required, overnight accommodation. Usually you will go with at two locals, one guide and one companion/helper. Guides cost 1000 Vatu per day which is great value. You have to pay more if you're asking them to carry lots of gear. There are no landowner fees as far as we know. Exchange Rates.

There are a couple of basic stores in the village where you can do some last minute shopping and then off you go.

Day 1: The walk begins in coconut plantations and then passes over a hill and up again before entering the forest. It's mostly easy walking and you can cover about 15 km before stopping to camp. The tracks follow the ridge tops, water is not easy to find and always down hill. Good guides know where there is water and you shouldn't need to carry more than a litre at any time. Opportunities for bathing are rare.

Day 2: As you continue walking, the forest becomes wet and mossy and the trail becomes more technical. Rain is to be expected and there are leeches although they are few and are not aggressive blood suckers. From here the track is rarely used and your guide will use a bush knife to clear it. By the end of the second day you should reach the base of the mountain proper.

Day 3: We haven't been further and don't know what happens next. Climbing to the summit of Pic Santo is expected to be steep, slippery, wet and a bit cold.

Day 4, 5, 6: Finish Pic Santo and return to Ipayato.

The villagers prefer to start walking early in the week, on a Monday or Tuesday so that they might return by Sunday. Conditions are best during the dry season, June to September, although the mountains are nearly always wrapped in clouds. You will need a tent, a sleeping bag, food and a warm top. In the rain, cracker biscuits and tin fish are the easiest meal. There will not be any dry firewood in the cloud forest above 800 metres or so.

The west and Mount Tabwemasana
The people of Kerepua used to live 1100 metres high in the mountains at Nokovula village and moved down to the coast in the 1970s. Today nothing remains of the old village and rarely do people go up there, only when assisting scientists and guiding tourists.

Kerepua village started a tourism project in 2006 and one year later they completed a bungalow. Guides are 1500 Vatu per day and there is a kastom fee of 1000 Vatu payable to the landowner, Ulboe ("Ull-boy"). Exchange Rates.

Trekking is best during the dry season, June to September. The wet season, January to April, might be disappointing because the river floods after heavy rains.

Day 1: Full day walk to the old village, following the river and finishing with a steep climb. The river is crossed many times and this can not be done when it is in flood. Camping at the old village is said to be good and there is a creek nearby. At this altitude there is often drizzling rain and it is cold at night. You will need a tent, a light sleeping bag and a warm top. Cracker biscuits are the most convenient food but it should be possible to make a camp fire in the dry season.

Day 2: Climb Tabwemasana and come back down to the base camp. The track is said to be very steep and slippery.

Day 3: Return to Kerepua village.

Here's a topographic map of Kerepua and mount Tabwemasana (844kb, 1700 x 1600 pixels). Check out the contours!

Walking across, around and all about Santo
There are many tracks all over the island but details are few. You will need a local guide.

West coast
Starting from Big Bay, head west and north and then cross the mountain range to Lajmoli on the west coast. Alternatively, one can cross from Malao to Elia (a good track. we're told). There are many variations and an airstrip at Lajmoli with one flight a week (5,600 Vatu to/from Pekoa, one way, full fare). There were no flights in 2009, following a plane crash in 2008. Exchange Rates.

Walking down the west coast is mostly along the beach. There are frequent rivers to cross and finding your way around rocky headlands is sometimes not obvious. Keep you shoes on when crossing rivers: the last thing you want is a foot injury. You will pass a village every two to four hours.

Between Wusi and Tasiriki there are cliffs along the coastline and most people travel by speedboat. It's said that you can walk, about two or three days, by climbing the hills and passing inland from the coast. At Tasiriki there is a guesthouse and trucks to Luganville.

Middle bush
Starting from south Santo, it's possible to walk through the bush across to Big Bay and there are kastom villages in the interior. You will need good guides because there are tracks crossing everywhere, some going north, some going east and even a few crossing over the mountains to the west coast. Walking conditions are wet and challenging.

There are many villages on south Santo where one can start a trek. You start by meeting the local chief, requesting permission and a guide. This is not tourism. Starting your trek from Butmas (middle Santo) or Big Bay are other options.

Some local tour operators in Luganville have done treks to the custom villages but the market is small.

Last updated: June 2009 by Stephen.