Walking Vanuatu on Erromango

The main activity for visitors to Erromango is walking and trekking. One plan is to arrive at Dillon's bay on Tuesday then walk to Happy lands on Wednesday, South River on Thursday, Ipota on Friday and depart on Saturday. If you stay for a week you should have time to visit Cook's Bay and Port Narvin as well. Erromango is sparsely populated and largely undeveloped and suits only adventurous, determined and patient trekkers.

Walking Routes
The track most used by locals and therefore better maintained runs from Dillons Bay down to South River and across to Ipota. There once were logging roads across the island in the north and halfway across the island in the south but these have long been impassable to trucks. Please note we haven't been to east Erromango so the following table is incomplete.

The west coast route follows mostly level ground on top of the limestone escarpment. Steep sections are encountered in the deeply cut river valleys at Dillon's Bay, Pongkil Bay and South River. There are few clean drinking water sources along this route except at villages where you often can find rain water tank. At Umponyelogi Village (Happy Lands) a home stay costs 1000 Vatu per person, per night including meals. It's a nice area but the river is 30 minutes walk downhill if you want to take a bath. Rainwater is reserved for drinking. On Wednesday afternoons there's a village market where women sell all kinds of lap-lap (only 20 vatu a slice) and a few rice meals (the children's favourite).

Happy Lands Kauri Reserve
The Happy Lands Kauri Reserve is two hours hiking (about 5 km) from the village and the last stretch of track is not well maintained. It's a nice enough place but is it worth the 2000 Vatu fee payable to the sole kastom landowner? Maybe it's better to spend the day walking ahead to South River. In 1998/1999 a project to build a guesthouse started but was abandoned because there were too many disputes amongst the locals. Four water tanks were paid for by the New Zealand High Commission and have been put to good use in the village at Happy Lands.

Accomodation and Camping
Outside of Dillon's Bay there is no tourist infrastructure so you must organize accommodation in a homestay or the village nakamal. A tent could be handy on the cross island routes, enabling you to break your journey and sleep in the bush, or at uninhabited areas like Cook's Bay. If you have a guide he should organise accommodation. It's a best practice to call ahead on the HF radio to let the villagers know you're coming. Around August it can be quite cold in the hills so a light sleeping bag is handy. Also bring a few supplements for your meals such as tinned fish and tea/coffee. There are very few stores outside of Dillon's Bay.

Guides
Some of the walking tracks can be difficult to follow and you'll need to arrange food and accommodation along the way so unless you're fluent in Bislama it's best to have a guide (about 1000 Vatu per day is reasonable compensation). Alternatively, on the frequently used routes it's possible to find someone to follow on most days.

Last updated: August 2004 by Stephen.