Reef Islands, uninhabited paradise of the Banks

The Reef Islands, also called "Rowa", are unique. They are the only coral cays in Vanuatu. The Reef Islands are located between Mota Lava and Ureparapara in the Banks Group. They have been uninhabited since 1939 when the people left after a severe tropical cyclone. The kastom landowners now live on Ureparapara, Vanua Lava and Mota Lava. Visitors to the Reef Islands are Ni-Vanuatu from nearby islands on fishing trips and sometimes cruising yachts.

The Reef Islands are enclosed by a large horseshoe shaped reef which protects a large lagoon with sandy shallows. There are five small islands inside, mostly sand built up over fossil coral and at low tide you can walk between the islands. To the northwest is a large break in the reef and a deep water anchorage. This is a natural feature and was not blasted open by United States forces in World War II as the Lonely Planet guidebook says. There is a story of a few bombs being dropped in World War II and there is also said to be a wreck of a ditched war plane somewhere in the shallows.

Vegetation cover on the Reef Islands is low, hardy bushes, casuarinas and other beach tree species. Only Rowa island has large trees and these make it appear to be higher than it actually is; it's really only a low heap of coral rag rising no more than about 5 metres above sea level. There is much evidence of village gardens on Rowa with stone walls, breadfruit trees and bananas. There are also a lot of black stones which must have been imported from neighbouring volcanic islands. Some of these are flat with many grooves that suggest they have been used for sharpening implements and/or making shell money. On Rowa there's a mysterious stone table with a few large round stones resting on it. Anwet is a long island, dominated by casuarinas trees with a long strip of exposed fossil coral along the edge of the reef on the windward side. It's a favourite spot for beachcombing and locals call it "China Town". Other islands are more sheltered and have more sand. Enwot island is covered in low scrub and has the ruins of an old village. Wotansa island has drier, more sparse vegetation and a camp site at the northern tip. The smallest island, Lavap looks like a sparsely vegetated sandbar. There are brackish ponds on Wotansa and Enwot islands and perhaps the early inhabitants dug wells and found potable ground water. Today, visitors bring their own drinking water. As a backup, coconuts are available.

Uninhabited and remote, the Reef Islands should be a nature haven but they are also vulnerable to exploitation. It's said all of the sea cucumbers (beche le mer) were harvested by an Asian company in the 1980s. Also, shark fining has greatly reduced numbers of sharks. Today, most people visit for simply for recreation and small scale fishing. Sea Mullet are plentiful and the locals always bring a net.

There are Vanuatu Scrubfowl (Megapodes) on the islands and eggs are occasionally harvested. The diversity of bird life on the small islands themselves is low. Shorebirds are more plentiful. The Reef Islands may be an important site for terns and seabirds but this is not known. It is hoped there will be some visiting yachties who are interested in bird watching.

Visiting the Reef Islands
Visiting the Reef Islands is an expedition. You need a boat, camping equipment, food and water. There are no formal controls on visiting the Reef Islands. Perhaps, one day the kastom landowners will form an association and collect visitor fees. This could help highlight the value of these islands.

The best place to find a speedboat is on Mota Lava. It costs 17000 or 18000 Vatu to go and come back. Exchange Rates. The locals don't mind camping a few days, beach combing and fishing and you usually would not pay any guide fees or daily compensation. In September 2005 there were two operational boats on Mota Lava but a shortage of fuel. About 40 litres is enough to go and come back. Budget for extra fuel to use around the Reef Islands at high tide. Under perfect conditions, it only takes one hour by speedboat from Mota Lava to the Reef Islands (at around 12 knots). In a choppy sea the speedboat must run slowly and the crossing takes up to 2 hours. If winds are strong it's best to wait although the local speedboat Captains are fearless.

See our Mota Lava & Ra page for more information.

First surveyed: October 2005 by Stephen.
Last updated: October 2005 by Stephen.