The
Reef Islands, also called "Rowa", are a cluster of coral cays between Mota Lave and Ureparapara, in northern Vanuatu. These low-lying islands have been uninhabited since 1939, when the people
left after a severe tropical cyclone. The kastom
landowners now live on Ureparapara, Vanua Lava and Mota
Lava. Visitors to the Reef Islands are people from nearby
islands on fishing trips and sometimes cruising yachts.
The
Reef Islands are enclosed by a large, horseshoe-shaped reef
that protects an expansive lagoon with sandy shallows. The
five small islands are mostly sand built up over
fossil coral and at low tide you can walk between the islands.
To the northwest is a large break in the reef and a deep
water anchorage.
On Rowa island there is much evidence
of village gardens with stone walls, breadfruit
trees and bananas. There are also some black stones
which must have been imported from neighbouring, volcanic
islands. Some of these are flat with many grooves, perhaps they were used for making
shell money.
Anwet island is a favourite spot for beachcombing and
some people call it "China Town" because you can find many things there.
Enwot island is covered
in low scrub and has the ruins of the old village. There are brackish ponds on
Enwot. Early inhabitants
probably dug wells and found potable ground water. Today, visitors
bring their own drinking water. As a backup, there are coconuts.
Wotansa
island is drier and there's a camp site
at the northern tip.
Lavap, the smallest island, looks like
a sparsely vegetated sandbar.
Uninhabited
and remote, the Reef Islands are vulnerable to exploitation. It is said that all
of the sea cucumbers (beche le mer) were harvested by an
Asian company in the 1980s. Also, shark-finning has greatly
reduced numbers of sharks. Today, most people visit for
simply for recreation and fishing. Sea Mullet
are plentiful and the locals always bring a net.
Visiting
the Reef Islands
Visiting the Reef Islands is an expedition. You need a boat,
camping equipment, food and water. There are no formal controls
on visiting the Reef Islands.
The
best place to find a speedboat is on Mota Lava. It costs about
20000 Vatu to go and come back. Exchange
Rates.
Procuring fuel on Mota Lava can be a problem.
About 40 litres is needed to go to the Reef Islands and come back. Budget for
extra fuel to motor around at high tide.
Under perfect conditions, it only takes one hour by speedboat
from Mota Lava to the Reef Islands.
In a choppy sea it
takes up to 2 hours. If winds are strong you should wait
for calmer weather although the local speedboat Captains are fearless.
Locals don't mind camping a few days, beach
combing and fishing and you usually would not pay any guide
fees or daily compensation.
First
surveyed: October 2005 by Stephen.
Last updated: July 2009 by Stephen.
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