Walking
Vanuatu on Vanua Lava, Banks Islands
Vanua
Lava doesn't have an extensive road network so long distance
walking is routine transport for many villagers.
Mount
Sere Ama Volcano Updated
The Mount
Sere Ama Volcano is unique in Vanuatu and a good walk that
can easily be done in a day. There's a solfataric on the
side of the mountain with many smoking fumaroles. The hot
ground heats the waters of the Selva River as it passes
the volcano and at its hottest you can cook in the stream.
Further up the mountain is a crater lake at the source of
the Selva River (but quite inaccessible). The central vent
hasn't erupted since the 19th century.
Lalngetak
village on northeast Vanua Lava is the place to find a guide
to take you to the volcano. To get to Lalngetak you either
charter a speed boat or walk. From Sola, a speed boat charter
to Lalngetak costs 4000 Vatu, one way. From Mota
Lava island it costs 4000 or 5000 Vatu. With speed boats
you can make a day trip to the volcano and do not need to
over night.
The
walk to Lalngetak is an easy 3 hours along level ground.
Follow the road, go past the airport (30 minutes), along
the beach, cut across Port Patteson and then roughly parallel
to the coast for one hour more. Beware, the Selva and Alket
rivers may present a hazard. Firstly, you can only wade
across the river mouths at low tide. Second, there are crocodiles
in the rivers and you will feel safer walking with a local.
If you start from Sola your hosts can arrange a guide. When
the tide is low you may find villagers walking to and from
Sola and join them.
The
crocodiles most often hang around the Alket
river; there are two or three. It's not known if they are
breeding. Sometimes, at high tide, they swim around to the
Selva River. The locals infrequently see them as they are
shy and avoid people. It is said the crocodiles will only
bite you if you done something bad. One man was attacked
a few years ago but the crocodile spat him out onto the
shore and he survived.
Safely
in Lalngetak you should find Pascal and he can provide accommodation
if needed and guides. You should also see Joe Presto who
represents the chiefs and you pay the 1000 Vatu per person
volcano visitor's fee to him. You pay the guides 500 Vatu
but usually they will be two and you pay 500 to each. You
need good, strong shoes and they are going to get wet.
The
walk up to the volcano is around 5 km and takes about three
hours, more if you take time to enjoy the surroundings.
The track starts through the forest and up hill then plunges
down into the Selva River gorge. Here there is a small creek
and waterfall with good drinking water (carry a water bottle
but no need to carry water from the coast). Then you follow
the Selva River, jumping on stones and wading as required.
The water is hot but not burning and the stones are not
slippery. At the geothermal site there is a steep climb
over loose ground.
There
are limited possibilites for camping at the volcano and
you may return in a day so there's no need to camp. If you
do want to camp it's OK in the forest near the drinking
water source, about an hour downstream from the volcano.
Camping on top of the volcano is not comfortable because
the ground is rocky and the fumaroles expel sulforous gases.
Further up and with much bush bashing through wild cane
and ferns you will find better camping on the ridge but
you need to clear a site.
Lalngetak
is a friendly little community and offers genuine, non-commercial
hospitality. Accomodation and food are simple and local
style. If you are not too many guests they can provide bedding
and a mosquito nets. There are nice streams to bathe in
and rain water to drink. There's also kava
every night. The only annoyance is sand flies, depending
on the tide. Your hosts may not ask for money but you should
compensate them for their efforts. About 1000 Vatu per night
is OK and maybe a little more as you please. Playing cards
make a good gift!
Walking
to Vureas Bay and Waterfall Bay
There's
no need to carry a tent if walking to Waterfall Bay since
there are bungalows to stay in. The walking is fairly easy
but the distances are long so pack lightly.
It is
a good three or four hours walk from Sola to Vureas Bay
(about 12 km) passing coconut plantations, several small
villages, crossing one river and walking through several
smaller streams (plan to get your boots wet). Nerr
Bungalows is a good place to stay. It's quiet and the
food is very good.
The
walk from Vureas Bay to Waterfall Bay takes another three
to four hours (about 12 km), crossing three rivers before
descending to the coast and following the beach (plan to
get your boots wet again). At Waterfall Bay there's Malau
Yacht Resort.
From
Sola, your hosts should be able to organise a guide. Alternatively,
you can start walking alone and meet someone on the way
(follow the truck road). Quite a few locals walk the route
between Sola and Veutumboso every day (except on Sunday)
but you will see less traffic on the Veutumboso to Waterfall
Bay leg. If you stay at Nerr Bungalows they can send someone
with you to Waterfall Bay. It's better to start walking
than wait for a guide.
Last
updated: February 2007 by Stephen
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