Walking Vanuatu on Vanua Lava, Banks Islands

Vanua Lava doesn't have an extensive road network so long distance walking is routine transport for many villagers.

Mount Sere Ama Volcano Updated
The Mount Sere Ama Volcano is unique in Vanuatu and a good walk that can easily be done in a day. There's a solfataric on the side of the mountain with many smoking fumaroles. The hot ground heats the waters of the Selva River as it passes the volcano and at its hottest you can cook in the stream. Further up the mountain is a crater lake at the source of the Selva River (but quite inaccessible). The central vent hasn't erupted since the 19th century.

Lalngetak village on northeast Vanua Lava is the place to find a guide to take you to the volcano. To get to Lalngetak you either charter a speed boat or walk. From Sola, a speed boat charter to Lalngetak costs 4000 Vatu, one way. From Mota Lava island it costs 4000 or 5000 Vatu. With speed boats you can make a day trip to the volcano and do not need to over night.

The walk to Lalngetak is an easy 3 hours along level ground. Follow the road, go past the airport (30 minutes), along the beach, cut across Port Patteson and then roughly parallel to the coast for one hour more. Beware, the Selva and Alket rivers may present a hazard. Firstly, you can only wade across the river mouths at low tide. Second, there are crocodiles in the rivers and you will feel safer walking with a local. If you start from Sola your hosts can arrange a guide. When the tide is low you may find villagers walking to and from Sola and join them.

The crocodiles most often hang around the Alket river; there are two or three. It's not known if they are breeding. Sometimes, at high tide, they swim around to the Selva River. The locals infrequently see them as they are shy and avoid people. It is said the crocodiles will only bite you if you done something bad. One man was attacked a few years ago but the crocodile spat him out onto the shore and he survived.

Safely in Lalngetak you should find Pascal and he can provide accommodation if needed and guides. You should also see Joe Presto who represents the chiefs and you pay the 1000 Vatu per person volcano visitor's fee to him. You pay the guides 500 Vatu but usually they will be two and you pay 500 to each. You need good, strong shoes and they are going to get wet.

The walk up to the volcano is around 5 km and takes about three hours, more if you take time to enjoy the surroundings. The track starts through the forest and up hill then plunges down into the Selva River gorge. Here there is a small creek and waterfall with good drinking water (carry a water bottle but no need to carry water from the coast). Then you follow the Selva River, jumping on stones and wading as required. The water is hot but not burning and the stones are not slippery. At the geothermal site there is a steep climb over loose ground.

There are limited possibilites for camping at the volcano and you may return in a day so there's no need to camp. If you do want to camp it's OK in the forest near the drinking water source, about an hour downstream from the volcano. Camping on top of the volcano is not comfortable because the ground is rocky and the fumaroles expel sulforous gases. Further up and with much bush bashing through wild cane and ferns you will find better camping on the ridge but you need to clear a site.

Lalngetak is a friendly little community and offers genuine, non-commercial hospitality. Accomodation and food are simple and local style. If you are not too many guests they can provide bedding and a mosquito nets. There are nice streams to bathe in and rain water to drink. There's also kava every night. The only annoyance is sand flies, depending on the tide. Your hosts may not ask for money but you should compensate them for their efforts. About 1000 Vatu per night is OK and maybe a little more as you please. Playing cards make a good gift!

Walking to Vureas Bay and Waterfall Bay
There's no need to carry a tent if walking to Waterfall Bay since there are bungalows to stay in. The walking is fairly easy but the distances are long so pack lightly.

It is a good three or four hours walk from Sola to Vureas Bay (about 12 km) passing coconut plantations, several small villages, crossing one river and walking through several smaller streams (plan to get your boots wet). Nerr Bungalows is a good place to stay. It's quiet and the food is very good.

The walk from Vureas Bay to Waterfall Bay takes another three to four hours (about 12 km), crossing three rivers before descending to the coast and following the beach (plan to get your boots wet again). At Waterfall Bay there's Malau Yacht Resort.

From Sola, your hosts should be able to organise a guide. Alternatively, you can start walking alone and meet someone on the way (follow the truck road). Quite a few locals walk the route between Sola and Veutumboso every day (except on Sunday) but you will see less traffic on the Veutumboso to Waterfall Bay leg. If you stay at Nerr Bungalows they can send someone with you to Waterfall Bay. It's better to start walking than wait for a guide.

Last updated: February 2007 by Stephen