There are volcanos and waterfalls to visit on Vanua
Lava and walking can simply be an interesting way to get from A to B.
Mount
Sere Ama Volcano
The Mount
Sere Ama Volcano is good for a day-walk. There are several solfatara fields on the
flanks of the mountain with smoking fumaroles. The hot
ground heats the waters of the Selva River as it passes
and in some places you can cook in the stream.
Lalngetak
village on northeast Vanua Lava is the place to find a guide
to take you to the volcano. To get to Lalngetak, you either
charter a speed boat or walk. From Sola, a speed boat charter
to Lalngetak costs about 4000(?) Vatu, one way. From Mota
Lava Island it's about 5000(?) Vatu.
Walking, Lalngetak is three hours from Sola along level ground.
Follow the road, go past the airport (30 minutes), along
the beach, cut across Port Patteson and then walk parallel
to the coast for one hour more.
The Selva and Alket
rivers may present a hazard. First, you can only wade
across the Selva River at low tide. Second, there are crocodiles
in the rivers. In 2007 people waded through the mouth of the Alket River. In 2008 they crossed over a shaky footbridge in the mangroves. It's safer walking with a local and you are likely to meet villagers walking along the beach when the tide is out. In Sola your hosts can arrange a guide.
There are two or three crocodiles and they most often hang around the Alket
river. It's not known if they are
breeding. Sometimes, at high tide, they swim around to the
Selva River. The locals infrequently see them as they are
shy and avoid people. It is said the crocodiles will only
bite you if you done something bad. One man was attacked
a few years ago and escaped.
Safely
arrived in Lalngetak, you can meet Presto, he
represents the chiefs and you pay the 1000 Vatu per person
volcano visitor's fee to him. Guides are 500 Vatu, usually they will be two and you pay both of them. You
need strong shoes and they are going to get wet. Another contact in Lalgnetak is Pascal Walter, he can help with guiding and provide accommodation
if needed.
The
walk up to the solfatara on the Selva River is around 5 km and takes about 2.5
hours, more if you take time to enjoy the surroundings.
The track starts through the forest, climbs up hill and then plunges
down into the Selva River gorge. Here there is a small creek
and waterfall with good drinking water (carry a water bottle
and fill it up here).
You then follow
the Selva River, jumping on stones and wading as required.
The water is hot but not burning and the stones are not
slippery. At the solfatara there is a steep climb
over loose ground.
There
are limited possibilites for camping at the solfatara and
nearly all visitors return in a day. If you
do want to camp, it's OK in the forest near the drinking
water source, about an hour downstream from the volcano.
Camping on top of the volcano is not comfortable because
the ground is rocky and the fumaroles expel sulforous gases.
Lalngetak
is a friendly little community and offers local-style
hospitality with simple accomodation and food. There are nice streams to bathe in, rain water to drink and lots of kava. The only annoyance is sand flies, depending
on the tide. Your hosts may not ask for money but you should
compensate them for their efforts. About 1000 Vatu per night
is OK.
In 2009 there was increased activity and a new solfatara. The new solfatara is to the south of Mount Sere Ama and is probably best approached from Sola. Ask in Sola for a guide.
Walking
to Vureas Bay and Waterfall Bay
There's
no need to carry a tent if walking to Waterfall Bay since
there are bungalows to stay in. The walking is fairly easy
but the distances are long, so pack lightly.
It is
a good three or four hours walk from Sola to Vureas Bay
(about 12 km) passing coconut plantations, several small
villages, crossing one river and walking through several
smaller streams (plan to get your boots wet). Nerr
Bungalows is a good place to stay. It's quiet and the
food is good.
The
walk from Vureas Bay to Waterfall Bay takes another three
to four hours (about 12 km), crossing three rivers before
descending to the coast and following the beach (plan to
get your boots wet again). At Waterfall Bay there's Malau
Yacht Resort.
From
Sola, your hosts should be able to organise a guide. Alternatively,
you can start walking alone and meet someone on the way. Follow the truck road and go past the turnoff to Mosina.
Quite a few locals walk the route
between Sola and Veutumboso every day
but you will see less traffic on the Veutumboso to Waterfall
Bay leg. If you stay at Nerr Bungalows they can send someone
with you to Waterfall Bay.
Last
updated: July 2009 by Stephen
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